The Vital Role of Atlantic Oysters: Coastal Protection, Ecosystem Restoration, and a Grilled Oyster Recipe

Pen and ink contemporary fine art by Doug Ashby.

Oysters—specifically Crassostrea virginica, also known as the Atlantic or Eastern oyster—hold a special place in both my family’s traditions and the coastal ecosystems that I cherish. Depending on where you are along the Eastern Seaboard, these bivalves are known by many names, such as Wellfleet from Cape Cod, Blue Point from Long Island, and Malpeque from Prince Edward Island. Despite the variety of names, they are all the same species, and for my family, oysters have always been at the heart of our Thanksgiving gatherings.

Growing up along the Mid-Atlantic coast, no Thanksgiving was complete without my grandmother’s oyster casserole—a rich blend of cream, butter, and oysters, baked with a cheesy, breadcrumb crust. One year, while savoring the dish, I nearly broke a tooth on what turned out to be the beginning of a pearl formation. Despite the surprise, I continued eating copious amounts of the casserole, and my family still laughs about that Thanksgiving, even though it was over thirty years ago.

As I grew older, I came to understand that oysters were more than just a holiday tradition. They played a crucial role in the Mid-Atlantic and New England coastal ecosystems, both of which I have called home. Historically, the oyster beds along the Eastern Shore were massive, forming natural barriers to storm surges and providing essential filtration for coastal waters. In fact, the Chesapeake Bay alone once supplied nearly half of the world’s oysters, and navigation through the area was often perilous due to the abundance of oyster reefs.

However, like many other natural resources, these oyster beds were heavily exploited. By the late 1800s and early 1900s, over-harvesting, pollution, and dredging had decimated the oyster populations. By 1920, the native population in the Chesapeake Bay had been reduced to just 1% of its historic levels. The loss of these oyster reefs not only hurt the local economy but also led to a significant decline in water quality and a weakening of the natural defenses against storm surges. As sea levels rise due to climate change, the absence of these reefs has made coastal areas more vulnerable to flooding and erosion.

Fortunately, efforts to restore oyster populations are now underway. Organizations like the Chesapeake Bay Foundation have been working tirelessly to rebuild oyster reefs and introduce oyster larvae to these ecosystems. Over the past few decades, more than 10 billion oysters have been planted in the Chesapeake Bay as part of restoration projects. The goal is to restore 50 tributaries in the region by 2030, which could have a lasting impact on both the environment and local communities. Additionally, oyster farming has become a sustainable industry, allowing for the cultivation of oysters without further depleting wild populations.

Oysters are not only important for preventing coastal erosion, but they also serve as natural filters for the water in which they live. A single adult oyster can filter up to 50 gallons of water a day, removing harmful nitrogen and phosphorus. This process helps reduce algal blooms, which can lead to dead zones where marine life cannot survive. By improving water quality, oysters support the entire marine ecosystem, fostering biodiversity and providing habitat for species such as fish, crabs, and other invertebrates.

Now, let’s talk about enjoying oysters as a meal. While they can be eaten raw, fried, in a Rockefeller-style dish, or, of course, in a casserole, I personally love grilled or smoked oysters. There’s something irresistible about a hot oyster, freshly steamed open over a bed of coals. My favorite way to serve them is with a simple lemon, dill, and olive oil vinaigrette. The acidity from the lemon cuts through the brininess just enough to enhance the oyster’s natural flavors without overpowering them. To prepare them, I use a Weber charcoal grill with applewood chips for a smoky depth. Once the oysters open, I carefully remove them from the grill, drizzle on the vinaigrette, and enjoy. It’s simple, quick, and never disappoints.

This essay is part of a larger series I’m creating to celebrate the two coastal areas I call home: the Mid-Atlantic and New England. These pieces are inspired by the traditional scientific illustrations that showcase the natural beauty and significance of species like the oyster. My goal is to raise awareness of the vital role that coastal ecosystems play, not only for those who live near them but for the broader environment. The health of these ecosystems is deeply interconnected with global environmental health. Like the oyster, which plays its part in maintaining the balance of marine life, I hope my artwork encourages others to recognize their role in protecting and preserving our natural world.

Thank you,

Doug